Small wonder one finds oneself drinking more and more at home, given governments’ general hostility toward the constituents of a proper boozer. The Colony Room will soon be shuttered.
‘I see it as my living room, and my only real goal is to send people away happier than when they came in. The drink helps. But it is today so, so difficult. Paperwork and petty laws. It takes great skill to make Soho not Soho, but they’re doing a hell of a job.’